Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must select engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS), otherwise the ECM/PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Select PGM-FI, then INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
4. With the shift lever in [N] or [P] (A/T) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally ?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
NO - Check the following:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 6.
- If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 8.
- If it won't disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check the following:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overruning clutch.
6. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
7. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- The ignition switch.
- The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- The starter cut relay.
8. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and current draw less than or equal to 380 A?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following:
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
9. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm.
YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following:
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
10. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
11. Select ECM/PCM reset to stop the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.