Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Testing and Inspection

Troubleshooting

Follow this procedure if the vehicle does not start after rewriting the ECM/PCM with the HDS.

Note these items before troubleshooting:
- Due to the action of the immobilizer system, the engine takes slightly more time to start than vehicle's without an immobilizer system.
- When the system is normal, and the proper key is inserted, the indicator comes on for 2 seconds, then it will go off.
- If the indicator starts to blink after 2 seconds, or if the engine does not start, repeat the starting procedure. If the engine still does not start, continue with this procedure.
- Check the ECM/PCM DTCs.

1. Remove the steering column covers.




2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer control unit-receiver (B).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with the proper key.
4. Check to see if the immobilizer indicator comes on.

Does the indicator come on (blinking or solid)?

YES - Go to step 5.

NO - Go to step 8.

5. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.7 terminal and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - �Check for these problems:

- A blown No.15 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- A blown No.7 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- An open in the WHT/RED wire.

6. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control-unit receiver 7P connector No.4 terminal and body ground with the parking brake lever applied, then released.

Is there 1 V or less, then 5 V or more?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Check for these problems:

- Short to ground.
- Faulty parking brake switch or a poor body ground of the parking brake switch.
- Repair an open in the GRN/ORN wire.

7. Check for continuity between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.2 terminal and ECM/PCM 31P connector A27 terminal.

Is there continuity?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Repair an open in the RED/BLU wire.

8. Connect the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.5 terminal to body ground with a jumper wire, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).

Does the immobilizer indicator come on?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Check for these problems:

- An open in the BLU/ORN wire between the gauge assembly and immobilizer control unit-receiver.
- A faulty immobilizer indicator.
- A blown No.21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

9. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.6 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON (II).

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Check for these problems:
- A blown No.19 (40 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- An open in the BLK/YEL wire.

10. Check for continuity between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.1 terminal and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Replace the immobilizer control unit-receiver. After replacing the immobilizer control unit-receiver, rewrite the unit with the HDS.

NO - Repair the open in the BRN/YEL wire.